AR no.133 | Elongated Wrap Coat
AR no.133 | Elongated Wrap Coat
A voluminous coat built for wrapping in, moving in, layering in…
Handwoven, hand stitched, one of a kind, signed and numbered. Each coat is a ‘remnant of an act’. To make this piece, I first begin with making the textile, which is the process of spinning the fiber, then to preparing it for my loom, weaving it line by line into a textile. After listening to the material and finding what it wants, I then carve it into a one-off coat.
The yarn for this piece is from sumi ink-dyed matte silk. This unusual yarn was handspun and dyed for me in Japan, arriving to my studio in the form of a cone, where I wind and braid it into a warp. I love working with this material as it has character, volume, and depth. It is like weaving with udon noodle-shaped thread — quite strong, flattened, and wide, giving a basket-weave appearance to the woven surface. Each flattened silk thread is actually comprised of about a dozen tiny silk threads. They are flattened and pressed together using a viscose coating that washes away once the woven textile is introduced to water. The textile will grow softer and softer over time, resembling linen perhaps more than silk to the touch and to the eye. The textile’s color is dyed using sumi ink, resulting in a charcoal-grey-blue, varying in shade depending on the light. When wearing it outside, darker bands of grey next to deeper bands of blue become apparent. Whilst weaving this material, I let the textile breathe and introduce itself to me as I work.
On the coat’s selvedge edges, which can be seen on the centre front and sleeves, there is a subtle shift in colour, from charcoal grey to a faded mauve. I highlight the selvedge on a handwoven textile wherever possible on a piece, as this edge is evidence of the hand. It serves as a recording of pace, time, and even temperament during the time the textile was made. These selvedge details can also be found at the flap pockets on each side, as well as the back spine of the coat. Inside the coat, the pocket lining used is striped persimmon-dyed handwoven silk from past garment in my archive. The coat is unlined and therefore handwork can be seen on every seam, and I feel it keeps the coat cooler and provides a further sculptural feeling of weightlessness. This coat’s long wrap collar is meant for play — it can be folded over into a shawl collar, it can also be simply turned under at the neckline for a more minimalist approach. It can also be wrapped across the body for full coverage, closed with the tie of a belt.
Dimensions & Additional Information:
Women’s Coat (although could be unisex)
Coat’s length, from top of shoulder to bottom hem: 123 CM / 48.5 IN
Coat’s Arm length, from back spine to wrist bone: 82 CM / 32.25 IN
The body of this coat is wide, fitting most sizes and shapes in a relaxed, draped way, with volume to move and flow. The sleeve is cut slightly wide, again to create soft volume.
Two flap pockets come with unique handwoven lining (from a past archive piece); hand stitching throughout the coat. To clean, dry clean when needed or hand wash in luke warm water using delicate soap. Rinse and roll access water; lay flat to dry. This piece loves to be steamed or ironed, or you can leave it to naturally crinkle as you travel and wear.
The woven silk skirt pictured with the coat in photographs is an example of how to layer this piece. Please feel free to write with any additional questions.
This piece is one of a kind, comes signed and wrapped in an archival box with special packaging. International tracked shipping included.